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John O'Sullivan goes trekking in Bhutan
22 days, the altitude is 17,500 feet
By: John O'Sullivan
The Kingdoms of Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet have always held a fascination, three kingdoms like a shamrock held together by an enchanted spiritual luck; on the roof of the world and yet so inaccessible - except in my imagination. Finally I was able to visit, and since then I have been back several times trekking.
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Armed with my Lonely Planet Guide, I and a fellow mentally-imbalanced Irishman decided that we would attempt Bhutan's Snowman Trek; frighteningly known as the most difficult, remotest trek in the world.
It lasts 22 to 23 days, the altitude is 17,500 feet above sea level - and under half of those who start actually finish. The minimum daily charge for any trekking in Bhutan is $230, which includes all your costs for a trek, so the cost of a 22-day trek per person is $5,060, plus tips, gifts, alcohol (and flying to and from the capital, Thimpu).
It was honestly the most challenging and physically draining holiday/trek/ challenge of my life. In the course of the 22 days I managed to loose in excess of 26 lbs. We were accompanied by four men who were variously chef, chef's helper, lead trekker and assistant trekker - plus ten animals, either horses or yaks (changed every four to five days), plus two herders. The day typically started by being woken at 6.30 and breakfast at seven. We started trekking at 7.30 and would hike until at least 3pm, when camp would be set. Dinner was at seven, with bed 30 minutes later. The routine quickly establishes itself and you become one with the programme (warning, there is no shower until the end).
The scenery was nothing short of stunning. with snow on four days.
Occasionally we met a local, with a radiant smile and a sense of acceptance and peace with life. This is the country where the King is supposed to have said "I am not as much concerned about the Gross National Product as about the Gross National Happiness".
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Trekking is like removing the layers of an onion, a glorious opportunity to take stock and get back to your most basic core.
Trekking forces you to be one with yourself and challenge why we do what we do in this rather crazy world. On the furthest and remotest part of the trek we were seven days' walk from the nearest road and telephone. Is that frightening or just wonderful? As it happened we finished our trek just as the most important four-day festival was taking place in Thimpu, with nightly concerts, dances and all sorts of interesting behaviour. Bhutan is a totally stunning country.
John O'Sullivan is General Manager of the beautiful Four Seasons
Jimbaran Bay, Bali, www.fourseasons/jimbaranbay
He stayed at the Druk Hotel in Thimpu to acclimatize himself before the trek drukhotel@druknet.net.bt and his treck was arranged by the Snow Leopard Trekking Company
Amankora, Paro, Bhutan
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