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Wines of Margaret River
Margaret River is much more than stunning beaches, majestic forests and spectacular caves - it offers some of the best wines in Australia
By: John Nielsen
Some people associate Australia's Margaret River with water and the outdoors - others, says John Neilsen, with its glorious wines.
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The French wine region of Bordeaux is well known for producing some of the world’s great Cabernet Sauvignon wines - but in recent years boutique producers from Australia’s Margaret River region have begun to convince Cabernet lovers to look elsewhere.
I had the pleasure of meeting the passionate founder of Leeuwin Estate’s Dennis Hogan a few years back and ever since have always wanted to visit the Margaret River. Dennis explained that it was the in 1972, following an extensive search for the area most suitable to produce the best varietal wines in Australia, legendary American winemaker, the late Robert Mondavi, identified the future site of the Leeuwin vineyard. Originally a cattle farm, Leeuwin Estate evolved with Mondavi acting as consultant, mentor and life-long friend.
It was with great excitement that I set off south from Perth and headed along the coast. After a four-hour drive the scenery began to change and vineyards appeared. Names including Brooklyn Valley, Devils Lair & Howard Park appeared on signs and the excitement began to grow.
Western Australia (WA) is the biggest of all six States in Australia. Known for the pristine beaches, rugged coastline, wine regions, the rich mineral fields and the capital of Perth are often missed by many Australian on their travel plans. Perth is a five-hour flight from Sydney and six from Brisbane.
For visitors to WA, the rewards are rich and fascinating. Perth is located on the coast and a great place to be based as you explore. The state has in many ways changed the Australian economy with the huge mining resources found in the northern part of WA. Global mining giants, BHP Billiton, Fortescue Metals and others have made fortunes come true for many Australians, exporting large amounts of natural minerals to China and India. Another natural export of great significance has been the in form of bottles of wine. The regions of Great Southern, Frankland River, and the Margaret River, are regarded by wine experts as some of the finest in Australia. The words ring true when 20 percent of all fine wine exported is from the Margaret River.
The climate of WA is warm with maritime climate having excellent effects on the soils around the wine regions. The spectacular scenery and stunning coastline with wide beaches and warm waters has also made WA a favorite with surfers. Cape Leeuwin is one of the most famous places and bears the name of one of the region better wine producers. It is not only wines that Leeuwin Estate’ is known for, each year Leeuwin stages a series of spectacular alfresco concerts in the picturesque grounds of the Estate as part of the Winery's ongoing association and sponsorship of the Arts. The tradition of the Leeuwin Concerts began in 1985 when Leeuwin Estate provided financial support for the London Philharmonic Orchestra's tour to Australia. As part of the visit the orchestra performed in this unique vineyard setting, thereby launching what was to become an institution - the annual "Leeuwin Concert Series. Leeuvin in fact produces a Chardonnay “Art Series”, a reflection its label and the music. Australian country & blues singer Kasey Chambers performed at Leeuwin Estate with her full band on December 30th, 2008.
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I arrived at the Moondance Lodge, boutique accommodation at its best! Hidden away in a forest there is a great sense of tranquility and calmness that owners, Geraldine and Richard Riley have created. The suites are decorated with Jim Thompson Thai silks and original art pieces, creating a luxuriously peaceful ambience to infuse and soothe the senses. I set off to the many cellar doors and tasted my way through a few bottles. It was great meeting winemakers and having their guidance. Sandalford Estate winemaker Paul Boulden explained just why this region has become so iconic for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but its third success factor has been the white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, a dry and refreshing white that perfectly compliments seafood. The cellars are generally superb, with excellent dining facilities (these can be great places for weddings).
On this trip I had decided to concentrate on Cabernet and Chardonnay, and I was not to be disappointed. Cabernet Sauvignon is often said to be very dry or tannic. The rich deep, but soft concentrated flavors were found in iconic wines of Moss Wood and Cullen. Winemaker Vanya Cullen has become a cult winemaker and has created a brand that today rates globally amongst the very best. It proved a common theme as I drove around and explored the fine wines of the region. I loved the finesse of winemaker Janice McDonald’s Stella Bella’s Chardonnay and the soft tannins of Houghton’s Gladstone Cabernet 1999, a glorious wine to salute the acclaimed viticulturalist Dr John Gladstone and his pioneering work in identifying the winegrowing potential of the Margaret River.
Looking ahead for future visits, I came across the majestic Cape Lodge and a real hidden treasure, Chandeliers on Abbey, the brainchild of Jody Parry and her husband, ex-golf professional Glenn Parry. The private and beautifully decorated cabins, with chandeliers, all have private spa pools.
After a packed day out I relaxed at Moondance Lodge. I dined on my balcony with a glass of Vase Felix Chardonnay. it had been a brilliant day.
I reached Perth late in the afternoon and headed to the private residence of Eight Nicholson Subiaco, a true boutique hotel with only three rooms, located opposite Kings Park and in the shopping suburb of Subiaco. The owner Cheryl de Jong, is an interior designer and here she has turned a private historic house into an excellent home away from home. The dark rich wood tones are combined with a strong interior use of colors and the upstairs suite is quite divine. The private garden is ideal for breakfast or afternoon tea. Since Cheryl’s second home is a family vineyard in the Margaret River, her collection of wines in the cellar at Eight Nicholson are good incentive to stay in for dinner!
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