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We drove, and were amused when, once off the busy M3 motorway and negotiating the country roads of Hampshire, to pass a prominent civic sign for a pets' cemetery. We passed through the imposing gates of the resort, and entered a 5,000 acre domain. Back in the Domesday Book of 1086, the estate was mentioned, and later King Henry VIII met his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, here.
The building you see now, however, is an evolution of an elegant three-floor brick mansion constructed in 1728 for the Mildmay family: it later became a preparatory school before passing to its present owners, Rochamel Construction (Four Seasons has a minority stake in it). The original building has been lovingly restored, its stone sculptures replaced on the roof parapet. Added to it, as if it had always been there, is an extension that winds behind and along to give a total of 133 bedrooms and suites.
As with many traditional English country houses there is a gravel turning circle in front. A young man rushed to take our car, another showed us through to the lobby. We were quickly escorted up to the 80 sq m William Godson suite, at the east end of the front of the original house. The suite had cream walls, and a sand-colored carpet with a scroll pattern. I noted a four-seat dining table, sand and cream upholstery, two chandeliers, a safe, a heated electric towel rail, Acca Kappa white moss toiletries and stylish Wedgwood china for the Twinings tea. We looked out over some of the 7,000 newly-planted trees, to the distant riding stables (where 14 horses live) and on to the Basingstoke Canal.
Time for the spa, magnificently converted from the original 1528-vintage brick stable block. Some beams still exist, above a slate floor and white walls with stunning modern art. Emma asked if I would like red, blue or green light in my treatment room (there are 15). I had an ESPA lavender, rosemary and mint back treatment, and an invigorating salt scrub. I looked at the saunas, which are son-et-lumiere, with no sign of heating elements but merely giant crystals that change color.
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I enjoyed the Technogym equipment, having been motivated by helping myself to one of the paper scrolls set out for you to choose: mine said 'if you never lose then you can never appreciate the victories (Laura Twitchell)'. Then I swam, in the 20 x 8 m indoor pool, in a modern conservatory, with a waterway through to the outside vitality pool.
In Seasons restaurant, we sat at two-metre tall leather banquettes, at a table set with pale grey linens, white Wedgwood china and a deep purple lily in a matching vase. Chef Jamie Jones, hired for his passion as well as talent, believes in bringing freshest produce to his table. I loved my tomato and basil terrine with braided baby leeks and then, to test his English-ness, crispy battered fish'n-chips, which arrived in a crisp edible basket, with mushy peas, lots of fries, the necessary tartare sauce and lemon wrapped in muslin. It was then essential to try his signature G-and-T jelly, which turned out to be jelly with granite on top.
I slept like a log. In the morning, on resort bikes, we took a turn around the estate. The resort has its own 20m narrow boat on the canal, which can be used for weddings or other parties. We passed the 18th century walled garden, the tennis courts, the croquet lawn, clay-pigeon and coarse fishing areas (gosh, there is so much to do on our next visit, and if it rains there is always the in-hotel Asprey store to explore). There was just time, after my morning shower, for a quick breakfast, and then we were on our way, waved off personally by General Manager Michael Newcombe.
www.fourseasons.com/hampshire/
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