As we mentioned earlier this week in our post on the Madeira flash floods, this island was hit by heavy storms on Saturday February 20th and caused some of the worst damage this island has seen in recent history.

For many people, the Island of Madeira off the coast of Portugal is a popular vacation destination because of its natural beauty, rich artistic heritage, beautiful people and delicious wine. And according to a recent statement made by Conceicão Estudante, regional secretary of tourism and transportation on Madeira:

“We want to assure people that Madeira is safe, that there are no problems at the hotels and that the usual tourist activities are resuming very quickly.  Of course it will take time to rebuild some of the infrastructure and that won’t happen overnight but there is absolutely no reason for people not to come.”

In support of our friends in Madeira at The Vine Hotel, Reid’s Palace and the Choupana Hills Resort and Spa, we’ve gathered up some beautiful photos of the island to inspire you when planning your next vacation.

The following images were taken within 72 hours of the storm:

Inspired yet? Click on the image below of the Vine Hotel to book your next stay:

Last Saturday, heavy rain caused flash floods all around the island of Madeira in Portugal, turning some streets into raging rivers of mud, water and debris. This is the worst devastation this Island has seen in living memory with 42 deaths reported over the weekend and close to 250 people have been displaced. Emergency crews are continuing their search for missing people along with a strong effort to clear debris.

According to the BBC weather center, they say the severe weather was due to a low pressure system, and that while Madeira can expect further rain with heavy downpours, there is no danger of a repeat of the flash floods.

Prime Minister Jose Socrates said he was “profoundly shocked” by the severity of the floods and promised the government would help Madeira recover as quickly as possible.

The island of Madeira, off the east coast of Portugal in the Atlantic Ocean is also a popular British tourist destination and according to the president of the regional government, Joao Jardim, he has said that he is unsure on how this will affect tourism in the area but not to dramatizing the situation too much.

Kiwi Collection works close with three hotels in Madeira and would like to extend its condolences to their friends on the islands and wish everyone there a quick and safe recovery. And in support of our friends, please consider staying at one of these fabulous hotels in the future and discover the spirit of Madeira for yourself.

The Vine Hotel:

This is a hotel with soul located near the historic Se Cathedral and is close to the Funchal Tourist Harbour. And being that Madeira is loved for world-renowned wine, The Vine Hotel is the place to be, to sample some of the best wine the island has to offer. Spend your days here taking a dip in the panoramic pool, a vinotherapy session in the spa or a gourmet dinner with a view over the city: these are just a few of the pleasures awaiting you.

Other Hotels in Madeira you should consider:

Choupana Hills Resort and Spa:

Reid’s Palace:

For those of you who still haven’t planned a romantic Valentines day for you and your sweetheart, not to worry, Tivoli Hotels and Resorts saves the day with some fabulous packages that you don’t want to miss out on.

Tivoli Victoria:
Set on the southern coast of Portugal in Vilamoura, the Tivoli Victoria is a beautiful Oceanside escape that exudes style, comfort and of course, romance.  This Valentine’s day get ready for fun with the romantic Loule Carnival promotion including a two night stay in a Double Deluxe room, a delicious buffet breakfast, a gourmet romantic dinner for two in their exclusive restaurant EMO and two tickets to the Loule Carnival.

Tivoli Lisboa:
Tivoli Lisboa is located right in the heart of Lisbon and is perfect for a romantic getaway. With beautiful city views stretching out to the sea and fabulous service you and your sweet heart will fall in love all over again. This luxury hotel’s special promotion includes a one night stay in one of their spacious suites, a buffet breakfast at their Brasserie Flo Lisboa and VIP treatment upon arrival along with fruit kebabs and chocolate fondue delivered to your room.

Tivoli Palacio de Seteais:
What could be more romantic than a Valentines getaway in a XVIII Century Palace? At the Tivoli Palacio de Seteais located on the outskirts of Lisbon, surrounded by a historic town, perfectly maintained gardens and views of the Sintra Mountains get ready for the romantic getaway of your dreams. Their promotion includes a one night stay in a double or twin room which upon your arrival will be prepared with a bowl of strawberries, traditional Sintra patisserie and sparkling wine. In the morning wake up to a buffet breakfast and in the evening dine by candlelight accompanied by a live harp and piano. And as a special treat you and your lover can choose from a special horse carriage ride, sidecar ride or helicopter ride to discover the surrounding area.

John Nielsen’s first encounter with the Madeira wine was not the most pleasant. He found it sweet and thin, and in general could not quite understand its fame. But that was all to change.

Mention the word “Madeira” and most people will think of Madeira wine that is produced on the beautiful island. Others will recall using the wine to enhance their cooking.

Venturing into the world of wines and gaining a taste for the alcoholic grape juice can often be a long process. A dear friend, Luiz began the educational process and my mind opened up to a world that I now adore and have worked with for 25 years. Luiz explained the complicated set up of the vineyards and then laid out six different bottles to taste.

The first few wines I had tasted were largely “non vintage” and were by his account “excellent for cooking with”…..the next bracket had an average age of 20 years and proved rich and elegant, but it was the 30 year olds that were simply stunning, I suddenly began to understand the depth and change.

The beautiful island, also known as the “island of Paradise” lies 465 miles off the African coast of Morocco and 622 miles from the Portuguese capital city of Lisbon. With stunning botanical gardens, miles of “lavada” trails for the keen walker, and a landscape that boast mountains, sea cliffs, historical sights and a fascinating history, it’s an ideal destination for all to explore.

The island of Madeira has an oceanic microclimate with the warm Gulf Stream passing through the islands and offers year round warm waters to swim in. The capital town of Funchal is picture perfectly set in the bay and is home to the majority of 300,000 population. You’ll also find a range of some of Madeira’s luxury hotels here including one of Europe grand hotels, Reid’s Palace and newly opened chic boutique hotel, The Vine.

The soil and climate of Madeira were found to be ideal for the production of wine. But many arduous years had to pass by, since the first plantings – circa 1470, before the land was cleared and enough vines planted to make an industry.

Most vineyards are on the south and north of the island, the smallest quantity on the eastern end. Usually the vines hang off trellises with lattice crosspieces for the vines to rest on at heights of six feet.

The roots of Madeira’s wine industry dates back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira was a regular port of call for ships traveling to the New World and East Indies.

The earliest examples of Madeira, like Port, were unfortified and had the habit of spoiling at sea.

Following the example of Port, a small amount of distilled alcohol made from cane sugar was added to stabilize the wine by boosting the alcohol content. The Dutch East India Company became a regular customer, picking up large (112 gal/423 l) casks of wine known as pipes for their voyages to India. The intense heat and constant movement of the ships had a transforming effect on the wine. It was found that the customer preferred the taste of this style of this Madeira Wine. Today three techniques are used to ensure the highest quality of Madeira’s are aged without the use of any artificial heat, being stored by the winery in warm rooms left to age by the heat of the sun. In cases like vintage Madeira, this heating process can last for from 20 years to 100 years.

Grape Varieties and Styles

There are four major types of Madeira, named according to the grape variety used. Ranging from the sweetest to the driest style they are: Malmsey, Bual, Verdelho, and Sercial. The four varieties will guide you in terms of taste, but real style and quality factor is the age. Often found in the export markets are the 5 year old “Reserve ” & the 10-year old Special Reserve.
When visiting Madeira make sure you taste the 15 to 20 year old Extra Reserve.

These wines are rich and a delight. Try them with a bit local goat cheese! To cap of the fine flavors seek out older Vintage Madeira, which must have a minimum age of 20 years and often can be over 50 years old, they can be quite sensational.

Winemaking

The initial winemaking steps of Madeira start out like most other wines with the grapes being harvested in October, crushed, pressed and then fermented in either stainless steel or oak cask. The annual harvest offers visitors a wonderful time to visit, when celebrations are high and the villages are decorated to mark the big event. Through out the island locals can be found helping produce the vintage or at least be part of the process!

The 1954 and 1905 Bual were sensational and dear to my heart. The 1905 was the birth year of my late grandmother and to celebrate her 75th birthday we opened this beautiful bottle. I can still taste the deep rich texture with raisin and honey flavors.

The 1954 proved brilliant and cemented my deep admiration for the growers and makers of this wine, as well as the island.

Madeira’s have been known to survive over 150 years in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to see Madeira’s pushing the century mark for sale at stores that specialize in rare wine.
As I walk down the cobbled streets of Funchal and pass by a wine shop or two, my eyes search to find a few more bottles with vintage Madeira from years that I will treasure.

This November 18-23, 2009, Lisbon, Portugal, will be the place to be for any contemporary art lover to be. This is when the ninth annual Arte Lisboa will be held. Over 60 galleries, both Portuguese and foreign, will be in attendance featuring contemporary art and works from renowned and emerging artists.

Feira Internacional de Lisboa (FIL) Pavilion 4 will be hosting this fair, located in Parque das Nacoes, near the Tagus River in Lisbon.

This will be a unique opportunity for any visitor considering the notoriety and recognition of the fair amongst the art sector and general public. Opening times will be in the evenings from 4pm – 11pm. And for a full list of participating galleries please check out the Galleries in Arte Lisboa 2009.

While in the city, Kiwi Collection offers you some of the best hotels in Lisbon to complement your experience at Arte Lisboa.

Tivoli Lisboa:

Tivoli Lisboa is an elegant five star hotel right in the center of the city on the famed Avenida da Liberdade, the main avenue of the city. The surrounding area is wonderfully elegant with many fountains and café tables shaded by trees, a great way to spend an afternoon before taking your short 20 min drive to FIL for Arte Lisboa.

Renowned for its business meeting facilities for top executives, and a well known meeting point in the city, the Tivoli Lisboa staff is always ready to exceed your every expectation and offers superb service.

While in Lisbon during Arte Lisboa, the Tivoli Lisboa offers a Seven Wonders of Lisbon experience package. This includes a three night stay in a Superior Double room, buffet breakfast at their Brasserie Flo restaurant and a Chauffer driven car for two days to explore the city.

Your first day will take you to visit the Lisbon Oceanarium and Parque das Nacoues, lunch in the VIII Colina restaurant, and ending with a visit to the Jeronimos Monastery, Belem Towner and the Belem Cultural center. On day two you will be taken to the Cristo Rei on the south bank of the River Tagus then onto the historic quarter of Alfama. After lunch you will then get to explore the Roman Aqueduct and finally the Chiado and Bairro Alto, the shopping and historical district. This is a sure way to complete your contemporary art experience.

Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa:

A 20 minute drive from the FIL, and right in the heart of Lisbon, is the Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa, which celebrates the life and history of Portugal’s capital city. This is the perfect place for both business and pleasure. Best known for its outstanding service, its restaurant “L’Appart and bar “Le Ganesh”, also greatly contributes to its charm.

It’s 331 rooms and suites are beautifully decorated and inspired by the four eternal elements, while the smooth touch of velvets and the quality of the woods further enhance the experience.
And when you come to Lisbon during Arte Lisboa, the Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa has a special Tiara Romantic Getaway package, giving you no excuses to postpone your travel. This package includes buffet breakfast at L’Appart, a delicious bottle of champagne, flowers, your choice of fresh pastries or fruits and a late check out to 4pm, perfect for sleeping in!

Tivoli Placio de Seteais:

Perched on a hill side just one kilometer west of Lisbon, and only a 40 min drive from the FIL is the Tivoli Placio de Seteais. Housed in a formal National Palace, this luxury hotel will take you back to the days of the elegance and architecture of the XVIII century. The setting offers spectacular view of the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace and is surrounded by beautiful lush gardens that you can spend idle hours wandering their mazes.

Enjoy the extraordinary panoramic views at the Seteais Restaurant, where food is an art and sample the highly original cuisine, all while listing to harmonious piano music.

When you book your stay here during Arte Lisboa, bring your special someone and make sure to take advantage of their Sitnra Palaces Programme which includes a two night stay in a double or twin room, buffet breakfast, candlelit dinner with drinks included, a welcome glass of port at their bar, and visits to Capuchos Convent, Monserrate Palace and Gardens, Pena Palace and Park and the Moorish Castel!

Situated in the heart of Vilamoura, Portugal, is Tivoli Victoria – the perfect choice for anyone looking for a relaxing stay with some great golf! Surrounded by golf courses, guests have multiple experience packages to choose from, wonderful gourmet restaurants, a luxurious spa and world class service. There’s no reason not to stay at the Tivoli Victoria!

As a hotel specializing in golf, the Tivoli Victoria over looks one of Europe’s finest golf courses, The Victoria, designed by the great American golfer Arnold Palmer. And with great golfing facilities as well as an additional 28 golf courses within an easy driving or walking distance your experience will surely be more than just a round of golf.

Got any special plans this month? Until October 31, 2009 the hotel is offering a special experience package “Victoria Special Golf Programme” which includes a seven night stay in their twin deluxe room, VIP service upon arrival, buffet breakfast, a welcome drink and gift, free access to practice areas with unlimited driving range balls at Victoria, Millennium and Laguna golf courses and free use of swimming pool and fitness rooms! And don’t forget when you book though Kiwi Collection you also will receive a complementary upgrade when available.

After all of this activity make sure you rest up at Tivoli Vitoria’s Elements Spa and leave the world behind.  With a new luxury approach to the traditional Asian Spa therapies, an emphasis is placed on the human touch as well as the use of natural herbs, spices and a reintroduction of an exotic mix of traditional health and beauty treatments.

Every experience at the spa is personally designed based on the ancestral practices and the fines oriental traditions.

The Tivoli Victoria is simply outstanding luxury that should not be missed.

Vila Joya is the perfect hotel to stay at if you’re aching for a fine-dining vacation or if you just want a relaxing spa vacation or golf vacation in the Algarve. We truly recommend this boutique hotel for travelers who want to explore the south of Portugal.

What better way is there to relax than by taking a vacation to the south of Portugal? Summer is the perfect time to visit this area, although if you really are in the mood for seclusion, consider visiting during the offseason to minimize the chances that the towns, beaches, shops and restaurants will be crowded.

Regardless of when you choose to travel here, we at Kiwi Collection recommend staying at Vila Joya. This luxurious boutique hotel is found in the Algarve (the southernmost region of Portugal).

This hotel boasts a variety of types and styles of rooms. Of course, we’re always a fan of the best room at the hotel, which is the Deluxe Royal Suite. This room is on the ground floor with a large garden area, a heated pool with built in steam and an open air shower! It also has a spacious living room and eating area, and a large bedroom with a view and an en-suite bathroom with a free-standing tub, separate shower and built-in steam cabin. Two ways to get some steam…that spells relaxation to us.

The first stop you should make is this Portugal hotel’s fabulous restaurant. This place is great because of Chef Dieter Koschina. He personally hunts down the best and freshest ingredients which he uses to craft his exciting and refreshing culinary treats.

You might also like Vila Joya’s Wine Cellar. Two cascades of cold water keep the temperature and humidity of the room constant which is perfect for preserving a perfect bottle of wine. The degustation room has a view of the ocean and can seat up to 12 guests at a time. The hotel’s head sommelier and Chef Koschina put together a special wine degustation menu for food and wine lovers to enjoy.

Be sure to also check out this hotel’s relaxing spa, Joy Jung Spa, and the golf courses near by if you want to take some time for yourself.

What a wonderful way to spend some time in Portugal!

The Vine Hotel on the island of Madiera is our kind of place: “a hotel with soul, just like a good wine!” This Portuguese gem is a lesson in modern sophistication. With 57 luxury bedrooms and 22 luxury suites, it provides guests with a truly unique, wine-infused experience.

And by “wine-infused experience”, we don’t mean their world-class restaurant.

It’s true, there are plenty of ways to relax in this upscale hotel. Guests can take a dip in the panoramic pool or enjoy a fabulous gourmet dinner with a great view of the city. But the best way to spend time here in our opinion is to take in the wine-themed spa.

The Vine Spa is definitely worth checking out if you’re looking for a little regeneration. The focus here is “vinotherapy”, which is all about using grape-infused products, which are the best for anti-aging spa treatments.
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During my travels I have had the pleasure of visiting many islands around the world. Some stand out for the natural beauty, others have great beaches, but very few offer a wonderful combination of history, luxury resorts, world-class botanical gardens and a countryside that includes mountains and vineyards.

As you arrive in Madeira, you can’t help notice the many plantations on the drive along the stunning rugged coastline towards the capital Funchal. After 20 min the main road turns and there in-front of you lies the city in almost amphi theatre. The lights on the hillsides create a stunning effect as dusk settles over Funchal.

Madeira has an area of 285 sq miles and is situated in the northern half of the Atlantic Ocean, 300 miles from west Morocco and 620 miles south from mainland Portugal. Flights from London take just over 3 hours and one hour from Lisbon. The volcanic origin of the island makes it fertile, giving it is fascinating topography of gentle rolling hills edged on to steep ravines and sharp cliffs towering above lush green valleys. The flower paradise in the ocean enjoys an excellent climate without any extreme seasonal variations.

As I walk through the town I cannot help notice the wonderful age-old buildings and the history that surrounds them. Joao Goncalves Zarco discovered Madeira in 1418 during the golden age of discoveries, when under command of Prince Henry The Navigator, the Portuguese sailors set out on their epic missions into the great unknown. Along with discovering Madeira & Porto Santo, these being the first of many discovery missions set out from Portugal’s capital, Lisbon.

A favourite destination for many northern Europeans to escape the cold winter months, it was also the winter get-away for Sir Winston Churchill, who would spend his past time painting the local scenery. Sir Winston would spend many afternoons seating on the veranda at the oldest hotel and today the best, Reid’s Palace. Today it is a wonderful hotel and is still “the” location for afternoon tea served with Madeira cake on the veranda overlooking the ocean. The hotel enjoys a stunning location facing the bay and the hotels botanical garden is a delight to visit.

As one of the “grand” hotels of Europe, the hotel is loaded with tradition. The service is warm friendly, all in all top quality and follows the style and slightly formal ambience. The pool area overlooks the ocean and has a lift to the cliffs where from a simply jump and you are in the warm Atlantic Ocean. With the Gulf Stream running around Madeira, the waters are always nice and warm all year. Food & Beverage in the hotel was fairly traditional; the breakfast buffet offers a great selection and even local sparkling wine with your fresh juice. The two restaurants are quite stunning in design, one more formal fine dining and the second an Italian. Make sure you sit outside and take in the view, but are worth a visit. The hotel bar is a must after dinner. Dance away with the back-drop of Funchal lights to the live band and gaze away after at the view, just make sure you also look at your partner from time to time…..the evening setting is magic.

Madeira is an island that must be experienced. The new road system makes it easy to drive around and visit the outer lying villages, where the true beauty of Madeira is found. The colours are sensational in the countryside. The Madeira vineyards lie high above in the hillside and close to the sea, growing the famous Madeira wine. I had the pleasure of tasting a few and wow, the older they get the more stunning the taste….the 1954 Boal was quite a thrill.

Madeira also offers delightful local food. A great mix of a deep-sea fish called “Espada served with local grilled banana’s” and the Espetada, beef brochettes, made in a wood fried oven served with fabulous garlic bread! A few glasses of Portuguese red wine or the green white wine, “Vino Verde” and you are feeling very relaxed.

As I set about to view Madeira I was taken on a levada walk. The levada or irrigation channels are located all over Madeira and were used by locals to travel between villages on foot. Today a wonderful network exists and is a must as part of a visit. Some of the walks even take you through the botanical gardens and give guided tours of the rich fauna.

The gardens are dream for any keen gardener. One of the most beautiful is was once private garden, Quinta do Palheriro was converted into a golf course and is now a public botanical garden. The walk around the golf course offers a good combination of sightseeing when the swing maybe does not quite work!

After a day on the golf course it is great to be pampered at Choupana Hills Resort & Spa. Located on the hillside overlooking the bay of Funchal, this modern addition to the hotel scene is an ideal hide-away. The resort & spa was first to the island, and now a few more have followed suit.

As I sat back at Reid’s Palace veranda with a cup of tea and admired the natural beauty, I have to admit that Sir Winston also made a great decision about where to hide and enjoy life. Cheers! I can’t wait for my return trip to Madeira.

The Lapa Palace is set on a hill overlooking Lisbon’s Tagus River, amid tranquil gardens dotted with ornamental fountains and streams.

Arriving at Lapa Palace, a luxury hotel in Lisbon, you drive into small circular tesselated forecourt of what looks like a two-floor pink building, with a third floor set into the black mansard roof.

In through glass doors, in front of you is a large single-floor lobby that seems larger because of trompe l’oeil fabric on walls and table tops. If you go straight on through, you come to the Ristorante Hotel Cipriani – on again, to the restaurant terrace, and you look down three floors (past balconies of bedrooms beneath) through lush gardens to the curvilinear outdoor pool. For those swimming or sunbathing, beds are set up, a supply of magazines and paperbacks is provided, and polo-shirted waiters offer complimentary fresh fruit punch. At right angles to the main palace, on the north side, is a seven-floor modern block, with balconies overlooking the garden. In the apex of the two areas is a multi-level blue-on-white tiled waterfall, with water trickling down through a pair of 12-step falls, either side of the door into that garden.

The original Palace was built in 1870 for the Count of Valencas. It was his family who sold what was by then a vandalized shell to financier Antonio Sinoes de Almeida, who in 1983 had restored the Albatroz hotel in nearby Cascais. At Lapa, he spent a fortune on restoring the marble, stucco, wood carving, richly-patterned azulejos hand-knotted carpets. He added the pool, the modern block and the health club (with its own indoor pool) and in 1992 he opened it as the 94-room Lapa Palace Hotel. Six years later, however, he tired of hotel keeping. He sold the Albatroz to his brother Carlos, and the Lapa Palace to Orient-Express Hotels, Resorts & Trains.

Sandro Fabris, the charming Italian General Manager, personally escorted us up to room 701. He opened the wooden door beaming with pride. Look, he said. The foyer had walls covered in braid-edged blue pictorial fabric. Inset into the marble floor was a white azulejos hand-sewn carpet with blue flowers and a hint of the same yellow that highlighted the four pairs of closet doors (inside these were a safe, wrapped umbrella, masses of hangers and the minibar, with Krups Nespresso, Dafour organic teas and Cloer kettle, and white Villeroy & Boch china, and fresh milk available from room service). On the inside of the main door are two fabric bows, one red, one green, with brass signs ‘do not disturb’ and ‘please make up now’.

Leading off the foyer to the right was the big bathroom, most of its walls completely covered, to the ceiling, with blue and white pictorial tiles. Above the double Jacuzzi was a heated towel rail. There was a separate power-shower stall, and a separate – but door-less – toilet area. The double sink, with big surround, had a copious supply of ribbon-wrapped Helleboro Italian toiletries, including a walnut and carrot sun-tanning lotion. There were scales, hotel logo robes and slippers.

First things first. The broadband access is one of the fastest in memory: there is also a free business center. Copies of today’s Financial Times and International Herald Tribune were waiting, mid-morning, on the bedroom table, which also had a giant white lily display. This room has cream walls with a lower discreet dado of yellow-edged blue tiles, and the two-level ceiling has panels edged with soft yellow and blue. Part of the parquet floor – I think original, and somewhat noisy – was covered with a large blue, yellow and white azulejos. Awaiting us were a ship’s decanter of port, and a plate of irresistible Pasteis de Belém bite-sized tartlets (apparently in 1837 Domingos Rafael Alves came here from Brazil and met Elias Martinez, a Calician pastry chef at the Convent of Jeroninos; together they opened a Belem shop and these pastries, best eaten with cinnamon powder and vanilla sugar, are one of the symbols of Portuguese gastronomy).

The king size bed has double dark-wood headboards regally set underneath a ceiling-high blue and yellow fabric fall. At the bed’s base is a mirror-facetted wood box from which the flat-screen television rises, and swirled through 360° as required. There are two terraces, one of which has loungers: a 35-ft over-roof walkway leads to the other, a stone-sided octagonal eyrie, with table for four, looking down to the Tagus River far below.

The restaurant is eat-inside, or out, on the terrace looking into the floodlit gardens. A guitar player strummed softly. Tables were set with white linens, Villeroy & Boch china and Sambonet cutlery. An amuse arrived, a shot glass filled with magnificent clear tomato jelly topped by mozarrella foam. A basket-tray of home-made breads included bite-sized flavored focaccias, to go with Beurre Echiré butters. The maitre d’ suggested a tasting menus of three appetizers, say a chervil-perfumed egg soufflé, with soft egg yolk inside, in a puddle of pea sauce; white and green asparagus with parmesan flakes; three bresaola and ricotta sandwiches filled with, in turn, asparagus, peas, artichokes. We also tried green gnocchi with pesto, and a Cipriani specialty, a classic flattened veal cutlet, still on the bone, breaded and served with a rocket and dried cherry tomato salad. The wine list uniquely starts with waters, with a range of nine still waters and five sparkling waters. The list then goes on to such enticing sections as ‘whites that make forget reds’. We drank wines from the Alentejo region, south of Lisbon en route to the Algarve. As one would expect from such a luxury hotel in Portugal, service at Lapa Palace is thoughtful, and discreet.

In the morning, to avoid getting lost in what is a somewhat-confusing hilltop area of town, for my pre-breakfast I merely passed the Dutch and US embassies and followed tramlines right down to the main river-side road. Back home, I could have made myself a cup of espresso from the lobby-set trolley but I rushed upstairs to shower. We breakfasted in the mornings-only restaurant, inside, or out on a lower terrace. We sat outside, at a table set with pale apricot-coloured damask. There were piles of Financial Times, International Herald Tribunes, and today’s faxed news, printed on different colors for each language. The exquisite buffet came with seven fresh juices in tall glass jugs with side-set inner receptacles for ice. There was J Charpentier Champagne and Absolut. The main food station had whole figs, papaya, cereals (and colorful M&Ms), an array of different breads, smoked salmon and trimmings, baby goats’ and other cheeses, and cold cuts. Among the already-opened big pots of Schneekoppe preserves were Marmite for the Brits and Nutella for the Germans. A chef, on another station, supervised small quantities of excellent-quality hot dishes.

The coffee was strong, and slightly chocolatey. It was time to go. Bags down, pay bill, a young doorman put us in the taxi, said come back soon, and he would be waiting for us.