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A Glass of Madeira Wine

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Mary Gostelow, September 2009

Wine & Dining
Photo: The Vine Hotel

Stay in one of the unique suites of The Vine Hotel

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Mention the word “Madeira” and most people will think of Madeira wine that is produced on the beautiful island.

Others will recall using the wine to enhance their cooking. Venturing into the world of wines and gaining a taste for the alcoholic grape juice can often be a long process. Well that was all to change, as I began to explore after extensive travelling around the island. A dear friend, Luiz began the educational process and my mind opened up to a world that I now adore and have worked with for 25 years.

I have had the pleasure of “tasting” a number of great wines, but two still stand out and both are Madeira wines. The 1954 and 1905 Bual were sensational and dear to my heart.

The beautiful island, also known as the “island of Paradise” lies 465 miles off the African coast of Morocco and 622 miles from the Portuguese capital city of Lisbon. With stunning botanical gardens, miles of “lavada” trails for the keen walker, and a landscape that boast, mountains, sea cliffs and historical sights and a fascinating history, it’s an ideal destination for all to explore.

Lobby reception of The Vine Hotel

The island of Madeira has an oceanic microclimate with the warm Gulf Stream passing through the islands and offers year round warm waters to swim in. The capital town of Funchal is home to some of the best luxury hotels in Portugal including one of Europe grand hotels, Reid's Palace and newly opened chic boutique hotel, The Vine (photo).

The soil and climate of Madeira were found to be ideal for the production of wine. But many arduous years had to pass by, since the first plantings - circa 1470, before the land was cleared and enough vines planted to make an industry. Most vineyards are on the south and north of the island, the smallest quantity on the eastern end.

There are four major types of Madeira, named according to the grape variety used. Ranging from the sweetest to the driest style they are: Malmsey, Bual, Verdelho, and Sercial. The four varieties will guide you in terms of taste, but real style and quality factor is the age.

Winemaking steps of Madeira

The initial winemaking steps of Madeira start out like most other wines with the grapes being harvested in October, crushed, pressed and then fermented in either stainless steel or oak cask. The annual harvest offers visitors a wonderful time to visit, when celebrations are high and the villages are decorated to mark the big event.

Over the years I have had the pleasure of “tasting” a number of great wines, but two still stand out and both are Madeira wines. The 1954 and 1905 Bual were sensational and dear to my heart. The 1905 was the birth year of my late grandmother and to celebrate her 75th birthday we opened this beautiful bottle. We tasted the wine with a group of her dearest friends who all went very quiet when tasting the wine, almost breathless with excitement and ore of this drop that had lasted the many years. The 1954 proved brilliant and cemented my deep admiration for the growers & makers of this wine, as well as the island.

As I walk down the cobbled streets of Funchal and pass by a wine shop or two, my eyes search to find a few more bottles with vintage Madeira from years that I will treasure.

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