Milling about Milan

She doesn’t draw the tourists like Venice and Rome do, but that’s part of Milan’s charm. Like those sister cities, she offers history—with the gothic Duomo at her heart—but as Italy’s money, fashion and design Mecca, she’s molto moderno.

On the heels of a Duomo drop-by (it’s practically an ordinance), pasta and wine are priority one. The piazza is obviously swarming with tourists and in turn a fair share of tourist-trap establishments, but tucked away on the top floor of one of the surrounding buildings is Spazio Milano, a restaurant-slash-refuge. The work of Michelin-starred chef Niko Romito, it serves simple, scrumptious Italian fare.

Eating and drinking is key to keeping one’s energy up when touring Brera, the design district. Libreria del Mondo Offeso or “Library of the Wronged World” is a bookstore and café and an utterly charming choice for soaking up the sun and a couple glasses of Prosecco.

Whether a guest of the hotel or not, drinks at the Bulgari Hotel should be on everyone’s itinerary. When I was there during Salone del Mobile, their 4,000-square-meter garden featured an installation inspired by Bulgari’s B.zero1 “perfect mistake” collection. Giant glowing rings or no giant glowing rings, it’s a magical setting.

Opened in May 2015, Fondazione Prada was one of the most inspiring art museum visits I’ve had in a long time. It can’t fully be described, it should just be experienced. In their “L’image volée” (The stolen image) exhibition curated by Thomas Demand which runs until August 21st, there is an empty frame from the Stadel in Frankfurt propped against the wall. It held Vincent Van Gogh’s “Portrait of Dr. Gachet until 1937 when the Nazi’s stripped it.

Their café is a permanent feature that could be an exhibit. Designed by filmmaker Wes Anderson, Bar Luce is a pastel dream of a diner. There’s even a pinball machine in homage to his 2004 film The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou.

Ciao Bella.