Laid-back Vegas

How does someone who isn’t fond of gambling or nightclubbing manage to love a weekend in Las Vegas? The right hotel, a dash of culture and a little spa time, that’s how.

THE RIGHT HOTEL

Admittedly, Sin City was at the bottom of my bucket list, but a friend’s wedding there bumped it up. Thankfully, I land at the Vdara Hotel & Spa, a hotel to match my low-key vibe. Their tagline is “do Vegas differently,” and the biggest difference is there’s no casino. While I did the token casino walk-through at another nearby hotel, I relish the fact that I don’t have to contend with a labyrinth of slot machines at my own.

I nickname my one-bedroom penthouse the Zen Den because it’s a refuge to come back to at the end of the day, and well set-up for watching epic desert sunsets. The pool is also positively chill—no throbbing EDM during the day, just pitch-perfect yacht rock—which is just what I need to peace out. That, and a well-made margarita.

ALL THE ARTS & CULTURE

In every other city, pop stars roll in for one or two nights, but in Vegas they stay for weeks, months or years, and that alone is reason to swing in for a weekend. Celine Dion, Lionel Richie and Mariah Carey all have long runs in December. For Cirque du Soleil fans, Vegas truly delivers, with seven different company shows nightly. I opt for O, aka the “water one,” and, as per usual, I’m entranced and astounded.

But not all art requires buying a ticket. Known for his work with light and space, American James Turrell has two installations at The Shops at Crystals near the Vdara. “Akhob,” which means “pure water,” lives on the fourth floor of the Louis Vuitton store—it’s free, but requires calling in advance to make an appointment. While the other is as public as it gets, located right by an escalator that connects the mall to the monorail. Art, sure, but also light therapy.

SPA TIME

Speaking of therapy, the key to leaving Las Vegas with that loving feeling (especially if clubbing into the wee hours is on the itinerary) is a spa appointment. My suite included complimentary access to the ESPA, so the morning before I depart I hit up their saunas and whirlpool.

I can hardly believe it, but I leave The Strip more relaxed and well-rested than when I’d arrived. Viva Las Vegas, indeed.