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Travel Diaries

Calgary without the Cowboys

by Joy Pecknold

Thousands of out-of-towners descend on Calgary in early July for Stampede. The 10-day, rodeo-centric event isn’t everyone’s can of beer, but as I discovered, you don’t need to like barrel racing or bull riding to fall in love with Cowtown. The city’s bikeability, dynamic dining scene and proximity to unspoiled wilderness prove she’s no one trick pony.

Calgary yoga

STAY

Sleek, sophisticated and centrally located, Le Germain Calgary is the furthest thing from down-home. That said, the ultra-friendly staff make first time guests feel as though they’ve been long-time regulars, particularly concierge Ben Phillips who’s as convivial as they come and brimming with local tips. While they’re located in the bustling heart of downtown, they do everything they can to set a Zen vibe. The brand recently partnered with Virginie Duval of Dfine to create four online yoga classes—including one to cure jetlag—and the front desk even supplies Lululemon yoga mats for guest use. On the floor aptly marked SPA2 level, their RnR Wellness Spa offers facials, body treatments and massages to rub down the daily stresses.

Calgary wolfdogs Canmore hiking

DAY 1

Under an hour’s drive from the hotel, just outside Cochrane, the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary let’s visitors watch and interact with wolfdogs. Fans of Game of Thrones will want to catch a glimpse Nova who’s cousins with direwolf Ghost. They have 29 regulars and the occasional rescue available for adoption.

From there, head to Canmore to get close with the Canadian Rockies. Grab lunch in town—Communitea Café specializes in healthy vegan and vegetarian dishes—and then head to the Grassi Lake Trail for a gradual up-hill hike offering views of the town to the east, a waterfall to the south and lakes along the way. Rock climbers will want to bring their gear—there’s a nice little crag that was a coral reef some 360 million years ago.

Calgary dining

Returning to Calgary, it’s time to freshen up and head out for refreshments. Intimate—there’s only 20 seats—and up on their wines, Bar Von Der Fels is an ideal place to begin (and end) the night. The palate primed by a glass of Corsican rosé, it’s only a few paces to dinner at Foreign Concept, which serves up inventive Pan-Asian cuisine. Relatively new to the culinary scene, executive chef Jinhee Lee is rapidly racking up accolades, and it’s to see, taste rather, why.

Calgary biking

DAY 2

Nomad Gear Rentals will drop-off and pick-up its rental bikes wherever needed—including right outside Le Germain Calgary. They also offer bike tours, or go self-guided and grab one of Mike Morrison’s Calgary by Bike waterproof maps—the city’s pretty easy to navigate.

When hunger strikes, park the bikes at Deane House. Before its current restaurant incarnation, the 111-year-old red building was a residence and boarding house. Fresh, regional ingredients dominate that menu, including Alberta lamb ribs and garden greens from their own backyard. Ask for a table on the patio and kick-off the meal with a refreshing cocktail.

A few pedals away from the restaurant is The Uncommons, a little shop loaded with well-designed paraphernalia, including cool Canadiana for those hunting for less clichéd souvenirs.

Culminate the day’s adventure by grabbing a pass at Le Germain’s front desk for the Calgary Tower located right across the street. Head up to the observation deck to get a bird’s-eye view of the ground covered from 525 feet. There’s even a glass floor to safely test one’s fear of heights.

Calgary cocktails

Conquering a fear of heights calls for a cocktail. Proof Cocktails & Curiosities is a proper spot. Head barkeep Jeff Savage is constantly creating new concoctions using tinctures, infusions and fresh juices. Mezcal drink “Fire in the Pharmacy” is a cult fave and will ultimately lead to a second, “The Other, Other Woman.” If the liquor hits too quick, a few $5 happy hour steamed pork buns will soak it up. Progress three minutes down the road to Native Tongues Taqueria for margaritas, tacos, tostados, all the mouth-watering Mexican things, and toast to the decidedly un-cowboy side of Calgary.