Skiing, Soaking and Spritzing through South Tyrol

After two years of staycations and dreaming of far-off destinations, two friends and I decided to take the plunge on a girls trip that combined everything I’d been longing for in one—irresistible food, a lot of aperitivos, outdoor adventures in the fresh mountain air and opportunities at every stop for pool time with spectacular views. What better place to do all of this in style than the Dolomites? And with that we were off to experience a ski trip the Italian way.

LEFAY IS LE FABULOUS

Arriving through Amsterdam to the Verona airport, our first stop is the little town of Pinzolo, a two-hour drive. On the last half hour, the Dolomite mountains begin to unfurl themselves in front of us and the excitement about reaching Lefay Resort and SPA Dolomiti mounts. It does not disappoint. Perched atop the town and overlooking a historic church and snow laden A-frame cabins dotting the hills, Lefay has a grand entrance, an even grander lobby space and the grandest service. Ski rentals through the on-location shop were a breeze and the ski valet service including personal shuttle to and from the Pra Rondont lift meant every detail regarding our equipment was looked after for us.

We headed up the Doss del Sabion chair to the bar Ristorante Rifugio at the top and got our first true taste of Italian “après all day.” That is, sling chairs unfolded, the Dolomite views unmatched and the Spritzes unlimited. Lefay was a perfect spot to return to for actual après ski. The outdoor patio was complete with fur blankets and heat lamps, while the spa and indoor-outdoor pool provided ample opportunity to massage or soak our soreness away. We ventured into Pinzolo to Weinstube Al Cardo Ristorante Pizzeria for a more casual dinner and to Bar Suisse in neighboring Madonna di Campiglio for pints. Chalet FIAT at the top of the Parcheggio Spinale gondola was by far our favorite refugio, both for the food, the scene and the 360-degree views.

SUBLIME SERENITY AT FORESTIS

After three days of pampering at Lefay, we ventured northeast, a couple hours-drive to a place that can only be described as utterly magical. With ski-to-door access to the Plose ski slopes and multiple hiking routes at our doorstep from the Sessellift Palmschob gondola, we were all set to continue our outdoor activities during our stay at FORESTIS.

I’m not ashamed to admit that we didn’t do any of that. There was such an overwhelming sense of peace that enveloped us the moment we arrived at FORESTIS’ perfectly curated space—partially a restored heritage site that seamlessly transitions to a modern addition—that there was really no need to go anywhere. With every room designed to take advantage of the Dolomite views, we probably would have ordered all our meals to our private rooftop pool and never left our room, if not for the stunning dining space and spa amenities. It was an unforgettable experience, a true must-visit. My only advice would be to stay as many nights as you can!

THE CHALET CHARM OF ROSA ALPINA

Revitalized and refreshed, we renewed our ski goals and set out for Alta Badia, a ski region just over an hour east of FORESTIS and famous for the Sella Ronda, a remarkably long ski route of infinite gondola connections interrupted by occasional skiing and stunning refugios. Each refugio was appointed with its own sling chair arrangement, impressive menu and equally impressive people-watching. While each one had its own character and vibe, Fienile Monte was by far the most special. Hidden out of sight until you pass over it by the chairlift, it was a true South Tyrolean experience.

We stayed so long we didn’t leave enough time to make it back before the lifts closed and ended up having to take a taxi home to San Cassiano. The locals will tell you that it takes six hours with stops to complete the Sella Ronda, but that was not our experience! No matter, we capped the day off with a swim and sauna at the Rosa Alpina spa, followed by dinner at their Wine Bar & Grill and an all-night singalong around the piano. This Aman Partner Hotel has live music in the lobby lounge every night from 7 p.m. to 12 a.m. and it is as charming and cozy by the fire as we’d hoped this traditional historic chalet experience would be. For something a little more casual, there’s neighboring La Vita E Bella Franz, or for a little more elevated, the tasting menu at La Stua de Michil in Corvara. Corvara is also great in the daytime for some shopping with coffee and lunch at L’Got.

A PRESTO BOLZANO!

On our three-hour drive back to Verona, we stopped in the mountain city of Bolzano for a quick exploration of the center square and a final Spritz. With availability of flights changing every day as travel volumes return to normal, this has recently become an available entry point to fly into from Heathrow. If we were to do it again, we would definitely take advantage of this location as a starting point. As the entryway to the Italian Alps, it’s a beautiful city set in a valley dotted with vineyards and unique architecture, with ideal proximity to each of our stops. Bolzano, we’ll be back.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR: CHRISTINE FLYNN IS A LONG-STANDING KIWI COLLECTION PARTNER AND CELEBRATED MIXED MEDIA PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER. SHE PRESENTS PHOTOGRAPHS THAT EMBODY THE MEMORY OF A PLACE, RATHER THAN A STRAIGHT-FORWARD DEPICTION.