Travel Diaries
Five Fun-filled Beach Days in Nicaragua
by Amanda BlakleyNicaragua is like that still somewhat-undiscovered location your intrepid friends whisper about. Verdant jungle and tropical forests border sparkly emerald coasts, hidden beaches and secret coves. Jaguars roam free and monkeys holler from the treetops. Dusty dirt roads lead to empty shores of pink sand covered in intricate pastel seashells. This five-day visit was not my first to Nicaragua with my husband and our two boys and it surely will not be our last!
A WARM RANCHO SANTANA WELCOME
With nearly 330 warm weather days each year, Nicaragua is a country full of contrasts, all at once rich in culture and vibrancy while humble and uncomplicated. From the airport, our friendly driver met us with a sign and an air-conditioned van. We shared the road with brilliantly colored tuk-tuks packed with people and horse-drawn buggies expertly weaving in and out of lanes, as we slowly crawled through Managua’s hot morning rush hour. We sampled roadside snacks of sweet mango sprinkled with sea salt and roasted nuts all excitedly passed through the van window by street vendors peddling their wares on bikes. We drove through small villages and ambled onto a bumpy dirt road to arrive at Rancho Santana. The stables stretched before us, signaling the equestrian roots of the community. Further down the road the Colonial-style inn and clubhouse came into view. We entered the main reception where an arched breezeway stretched all the way to the Costa Esmeralda.
After receiving cooling towels and all relevant information, we were shown to a handsome three-bedroom oceanfront residence, perfect for a family even larger than ours! Complete with two stylish primary suites, a lovely twin bedroom and ensuite bathrooms for all. The fully stocked kitchen would be fun for preparing meals to enjoy on the private terrace, but we were much more interested in trying the property’s multiple restaurants. There was an option to have a private chef for a night or two—if we had come with extended family that would definitely be the way to go.
A reception of the chattiest birds greeted us emphatically as we threw open the rear French doors which lead directly to a beach path and an infinity edged pool that looked as though it disappeared into the ocean beyond. The boys squealed with delight as they simultaneously shed their too-hot traveling clothes and prepared to jump in.
We unpacked and made ourselves comfortable in our spacious home away from home. After a casual lunch and another refreshing swim—this time in the Sand Dollar pool with views of Playa Santana and the crashing waves—we all retired for some of those deep, disorienting jet lag naps that can only truly be appreciated while on vacation.
The Rancho Santana community is spread out over almost 3,000 acres encompassing five beaches, three pools, two clubhouses, five restaurants, a breezy yoga pavilion overlooking the sea, surf shack and stunning spa. Along with miles of nature paths and fat-tire mountain biking trails, there is also an organic garden that services the entire property and, of course, the stables.
ALL ABOUT BOARDS
We had a full schedule of fun planned that kicked off on our first morning with hidden beaches and sand boarding down a natural dune. After a 10-minute drive in the house Land Cruiser, we followed our amazing guide Eddy down a clandestine path and with his help navigated a set of stairs hugging the steep cliff face leading to Playa Duna. We were rewarded for our effort with the most epic views and a fun sand crab race on the beach below. The dune boarding was thrilling and hilarious. After everyone took a couple rips down and back up again, we cooled off in the refreshing water of the empty beach. We stayed a while playing in the tide pools discovering sea urchins, crabs and other aquatic life. Back at Rancho, the remainder of the day was spent between pools, with a brief interlude for lunch at the pool bar and wave jumping at Playa Santana, the beach just beyond our backdoor. Sleep came easily after a seafood feast under the stars at Finca y Mar.
Every morning we fueled up at El Cafe with coffee, maracuyá juice and hearty tropical Açaí bowls. After our boys discovered there was a kids’ club onsite the morning routine was set. While they made piñatas, visited the horses, organic gardens and a nearby village, we enjoyed our books under a rhythmic palm-leaf fan. Mid-morning yoga was a blissful escape and the perfect antidote to my tight and sore post-surfing muscles.
Our afternoons were reserved for just that—surfing. We would all pile into the Land Cruiser and head to the Surf & Beach Club at Playa Los Perros, a great family-friendly beach with fun waves for beginners and intermediates. It’s also just a lovely spot to hangout in a hammock with a cold beer and a book, enjoy some house-made tacos and ceviche from La Taqueria or go for a swim. We adored our amazing surf instructors, Lenin and Oscar, who had us all cruising into shore on party waves galore. A definite trip highlight for this surf-loving mama!
LEGENDARY SUNSETS AND STARRY NIGHTS
One evening, the team arranged a bonfire on the beach for our little crew. It was a magical night under the star-sprinkled sky, the waves crashing and the wood crackling, sending up sparks into the air. We talked about our day and roasted marshmallows that melted between local Nicaraguan chocolate-centered biscuits.
The days and nights passed far too quickly and before we knew it, our final night was upon us. As it turned out, we saved the best for last. After our final surf session, we headed to La Boquita, a pool house with an open-air kitchen, for a swim and sundowners. The sunsets from this special spot overlooking the pink sands of Playa Rosada are legendary. The boys swam in the pool while we sipped passion fruit-tinged sangria and watched the sun slowly dip into the sea. At dusk, we ordered wood-fired pizzas and salads and recapped our five glorious days in paradise. So many highs for all of us, but the most important was the gift of a timeout from real life to spend in this special place together as a family. We’ll definitely plan a return with our extended family next!
