More to Munich than Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest kicks off on September 17th and it goes without saying that it’s a really big deal in Munich. But there’s more to the German town than beer gardens and lederhosen. On a trip earlier this year, I discovered cocktail bars, beach culture and entertainment of both the profound and peculiar nature.

Opened in 1937 as a centerpiece of Nazi propaganda, then called the “House of German Art,” Haus der Kunst’s exterior is plastered with Christian Boltanski’s poster installation which features the eyes of Rote Kapelle members, an anti-facist network of 150 that risked their live to resist the regime.

At the back of gallery, there’s a slick little establishment, Die Goldene Bar, for grabbing a cocktail and discussing the works.

Just around the corner is Eisbach, a man-made river with a wave for the urban surfer, and those who like to watch them.

Birds of a feather also flock together at the Isar. When the weather is nice enough, crowds, including swans and humans, laze along the river’s shore near Reichenbach bridge.

While people booze right by the river (there are merchants selling beer next to the bridge), the rooftop bar at The Flushing Meadows offers the more traditional bird’s-eye view, up and away from the throngs.

They won’t be doing Swan Lake this year—rather, Giselle—but seeing the Bavarian State Ballet perform in the ornate National Theater is a treat. Kiwi tip: if the tickets only cost €10, the view will likely be obscured by the back of someone’s head.

On the kitschier side of things is a day trip out to one of the Bavarian mountaintop resorts. Wendelstein was the aim, but on arrival a sign denoted the cable car was closed for refurbishments that day (what luck). Plan B was Schliersbergalm, which not only offers a killer view of Lake Schliersee, but also has a playground, mini golf course, trampoline, ball pit, pool, alpine roller and giant chess set. There’s also no need to miss out on the ol’ beer garden and a helping of traditional weißwurst, which looks the worst but doesn’t taste the worst.

Equally quirky is a trip out to the Bavaria Filmstadt, a working film lot with a few historical artifacts. Straddling Falkor from The NeverEnding Story and seeing oneself faux-flying through clouds on a nearby TV monitor is worth the price of admission alone, but there’s also the submarine from Das Boot to walk through.

Here’s a drinking game to bring home: for every rude-sounding German word uttered, take a swig. Pictured are three to start things off. Proust!