Hong Kong Highs

The fact that Hong Kong has a density of 66,200 people per square mile sounds overwhelming, but it has the magic ingredients—chiefly, gorgeous green spaces and a killer food scene—to cure even the most serious cases of ochlophobia (fear of crowds). Herein, how the seaside city won me over.

STAY

From the pleasantest check-in to the friendliest housekeepers, The Langham Hong Kong’s service is impeccable. Located in Tsim Sha Tsui, luxury shopping and cultural spots are both crazy close, and to reach everything else there’s the subway station a minute’s walk away. Rich, regal coziness aptly describes the room décor with crown moldings, gilded accents and velvety settees. Opting for The Club’s privileges is the way to go—it’s 11^th floor lounge offers respite and all the bevies and snacks one needs to recharge before heading back out into the HK hustle.

In the Central district, the Conrad Hong Kong draws a big business crowd, but even for those just tagging along on a work trip, there are perks. Upper floor rooms offering impressive harbour views is one. There’s also the hotel’s rooftop pool that’s open late, and direct indoor access to high-end Pacific Place mall.

DO

Hong Kong should really be seen from all levels. First, from the street, and the coolest way to get acquainted is Accidental Art’s street art tour of Central. Just off main roads and down narrow alleyways are the works of Banksy, Invader and Shepard Fairy, as well as the King of Kowloon, Tsang Tsou Choi.

Next, it needs to be seen from the water. Evening Aqualuna cruises leave from the Tsim Sha Tsui pier, just a short stroll from the Langham, every 30 minutes or so. Touristy as it is, it’s worth it, because seeing the sunset and the city light up (complemented with a cold beer) is never not magical.

Then, one needs to get high, and see the city from above. For that, there’s the well-known peak tram. Since 1888, the tram has transported passengers from its lower station at 28 metres above sea level to 396 up on Victoria Peak where there’s a staggering 180 degree view of the city and Victoria Harbour. Those hankering to take in even more of Mother Nature should venture out to Sai Kung and explore the UNESCO Global Geopark where there’s a bounty of rare and impressive rock formations.

DINE

A huge part of Hong Kong’s allure is the eternally long list of incredible restaurants. At the top of that list is the Langham’s T’ang Court for traditional Cantonese. Even if one isn’t staying at the hotel, it demands a visit—but there’s no need to take my word for it when the Michelin Guide’s bestowed it with three stars. Highly photographable and equally delicious, the baked seafood rice served in a crab-shaped dish is a must-have.

When all the fried rice and fried everything gets to be too much, there’s Japanese food. One of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Ronin does it izakaya-style and lies behind an unmarked black door. Inside, there are only 14 seats along the bar to reserve, and another 12 along the wall for walk-ins. Let the chef steer the courses by asking for the market tasting menu. In addition to seafood, they’re well stocked with whisky.